That works well if the crack is on the edge. If the crack is inward from the edge then you can drill holes at either end of the crack to prevent it from spreading. This method is called "stop drilling"Shalaq":b25gai7h said:If a cymbal is already cracked, you can drill a hole in the end of the crack, you can cut out the crack (if this is a crack on the cymbal - then you cut it out in a shape of a semicircle c or a triangle < )
I hear ya Heath. I also play Zildjians and other than my K ride and my High China, the rest are all A Customs - I have 15", 16", and 18" crashes, 10" splash, and 14" Mastersound hats and I'm averaging replacing one of those crashes a year due to cracking. And I do crash with a swiping motion and play with dynamics, so it's not like I'm bashing the hell out of them all the time or anything. I also am careful not to ever store them (even in my cymbal bag!) on their edges, only laying flat; I keep the sleeves and pads on my stands fresh and new as well and don't have issues with keyholing. I've just been of the opinion that if I want to have that distinct A Custom sound, then I'm going to have to accept that they will break in time and I will have to eat that cost in order to play the cymbal I like the most for what my band does.hwesley111":11jzr7lg said:I've been breaking about 3 cymbals a year. It's a drag. But all the advice above is true, and seems to make a big difference. It's really a matter of changing your technique. My first studio gig, the engineer told me I didn't hit hard enough... ever since then I tried to hit a lot harder. It worked. My back beat's never sounded better, but damn, Zildjian A Custom's don't come cheap...
Time to re-work my approach