Dream Cymbals

rufus4dagruv

New member
I've got a couple; 20" Bliss at 1850 grams and a 22" Bliss at 2395 grams. They are very inconsistent from pie to pie, but that's not uncommon with completely hand hammered cymbals. I'm going to be picking up a 17" Vintage soon.

I've used the 22" for trio and quartet jazz and blues. The 20" makes a great LSR and I have also bin using it as a crash in my Reggae band lately. It blends surprisingly well with my 18" HHX Legacy and 15" Giant Beat hats. It's a great cymbals.
 

rufus4dagruv

New member
I've never broken a cymbal from playing. The only think I could say would be that as long as you use proper technique and not just bash, they will last as long as any other cymbal.
 

40th

New member
rufus4dagruv":1pgv5c1y said:
I've never broken a cymbal from playing. The only think I could say would be that as long as you use proper technique and not just bash, they will last as long as any other cymbal.

ditto.
 

Just Drums

New member
We had Dream make a visit to our shop. They showed us dozens of models and I was honestly impressed. We'll probably carry them soon. Very nice B20 and B23 cymbals for much less than the bigger brand names.
 

Steve@NDC

New member
I'm very intrigued with the Bliss line. Always on the hunt for old Ks, but the prices are always steep. From what I hear, the Bliss line comes very close to that old trashy K sound. Now, I'm just waiting for a dealer in Rochester area to pick them up, so I can actually hear some in person. The FrontRangeBronze site does a nice job with sound files, but I'd still like to get in the same room with some real plates.
 

rufus4dagruv

New member
The FRB soundfiles are pretty accurate. I find that using an Erskine ride stick keeps the wash on the Bliss type III's in check. I'm actually a big fan of the newer Bliss Vintage line. REAL thin, but some post-lathe hammering really smooths out some of the complexities more common in the Bliss III's. My 22" Bliss III still is nice and trashy, but I'm thinking about letting it go. I haven't been using it lately, and probably won't for several months. My 20" though, just kills. A great cymbal that I'm not going to be quick to let go of. It gets better every time I play it.
 

christopherabruce

New member
rufus4dagruv":28rlsdcr said:
... I find that using an Erskine ride stick keeps the wash on the Bliss type III's in check...
I have an 18" and a 22" and find that, that's true, for my 22". It has a good deal of wash. To take care of excess wash, I have a smallish, no more than 1", gaffers tape square on the underside of my 22", where the bell's edge meets the bow.
 

rufus4dagruv

New member
christopherabruce":15d8cab9 said:
rufus4dagruv":15d8cab9 said:
... I find that using an Erskine ride stick keeps the wash on the Bliss type III's in check...
I have an 18" and a 22" and find that, that's true, for my 22". It has a good deal of wash. To take care of excess wash, I have a smallish, no more than 1", gaffers tape square on the underside of my 22", where the bell's edge meets the bow.
Haha, actually have have 2 pieces of gaffers to try to control it! It did help, but I'm hoping to sit down with it and try some mallet rolling to see if she'll tame up a bit. If it doesn't, which will most likely be the case, I have considered sending it out to Mike Skiba to see if he tune it up. I was thinking of having him lathe about 200 grams off the top, closer to the edge, rehammer and leave the bottom a turk, and then flange the outer edge down just a bit. Maybe. We'll see. At the same time, I could just email him and have him make me one from a B20 blank.
 

antiunderscores

New member
rufus4dagruv":1afryedo said:
christopherabruce":1afryedo said:
rufus4dagruv":1afryedo said:
... I find that using an Erskine ride stick keeps the wash on the Bliss type III's in check...
I have an 18" and a 22" and find that, that's true, for my 22". It has a good deal of wash. To take care of excess wash, I have a smallish, no more than 1", gaffers tape square on the underside of my 22", where the bell's edge meets the bow.
Haha, actually have have 2 pieces of gaffers to try to control it! It did help, but I'm hoping to sit down with it and try some mallet rolling to see if she'll tame up a bit. If it doesn't, which will most likely be the case, I have considered sending it out to Mike Skiba to see if he tune it up. I was thinking of having him lathe about 200 grams off the top, closer to the edge, rehammer and leave the bottom a turk, and then flange the outer edge down just a bit. Maybe. We'll see. At the same time, I could just email him and have him make me one from a B20 blank.
please explain. whats turk mean and whats flanging the outer edge down a bit going to do for the sound?
 

rufus4dagruv

New member
antiunderscores":1efi2xdp said:
rufus4dagruv":1efi2xdp said:
christopherabruce":1efi2xdp said:
rufus4dagruv":1efi2xdp said:
... I find that using an Erskine ride stick keeps the wash on the Bliss type III's in check...
I have an 18" and a 22" and find that, that's true, for my 22". It has a good deal of wash. To take care of excess wash, I have a smallish, no more than 1", gaffers tape square on the underside of my 22", where the bell's edge meets the bow.
Haha, actually have have 2 pieces of gaffers to try to control it! It did help, but I'm hoping to sit down with it and try some mallet rolling to see if she'll tame up a bit. If it doesn't, which will most likely be the case, I have considered sending it out to Mike Skiba to see if he tune it up. I was thinking of having him lathe about 200 grams off the top, closer to the edge, rehammer and leave the bottom a turk, and then flange the outer edge down just a bit. Maybe. We'll see. At the same time, I could just email him and have him make me one from a B20 blank.
please explain. whats turk mean and whats flanging the outer edge down a bit going to do for the sound?
Turk essentially means unlathed. A Turk style cymbal would look something like this:

<a href="http://cymbalsonly.com/">
</a>

I find that just raw hammering "tightens" up a cymbal and dries it out. This works well for lighter cymbals to control the trashiness. Flanging the edge also helps. The Istanbul Agop Epoch ride is a good example:

<a href="http://cymbalsonly.com/">
</a>

If you look at the out edge, it appears a bit darker in the photo. This is because it is flanged downward a bit. Again, this will help control the spread. I like the idea of having a dry ride, but I do not care for heavy rides because I find them to generally be too one dimensional, i.e. best for louder settings. I want a ride in my arsenal that would be useful at lower volumes for jams, rehearsals, and tiny unmic'ed venues, but also can be laid into without getting out of control. I love to play out and jam with just a snare, kick, hats, and 1 cymbal, and my cymbalholic-like nature has prevented me from completely narrowing down that 1 pie (don't get me started on the hats, haha!). Anywho, I hope this answers your question.
 

christopherabruce

New member
If you do that, let us know how it works. I thought about doing the same thing for a while, but I realized that the excess wash really only bugs me when practicing or with an acoustic duo. Not a problem with recording or larger groups. Might still have it done though.

rufus4dagruv":3m83783c said:
...I have considered sending it out to Mike Skiba to see if he tune it up. I was thinking of having him lathe about 200 grams off the top, closer to the edge, rehammer and leave the bottom a turk, and then flange the outer edge down just a bit. Maybe. We'll see. At the same time, I could just email him and have him make me one from a B20 blank.
 

rufus4dagruv

New member
christopherabruce":2gwdnrnp said:
If you do that, let us know how it works. I thought about doing the same thing for a while, but I realized that the excess wash really only bugs me when practicing or with an acoustic duo. Not a problem with recording or larger groups. Might still have it done though.

rufus4dagruv":2gwdnrnp said:
...I have considered sending it out to Mike Skiba to see if he tune it up. I was thinking of having him lathe about 200 grams off the top, closer to the edge, rehammer and leave the bottom a turk, and then flange the outer edge down just a bit. Maybe. We'll see. At the same time, I could just email him and have him make me one from a B20 blank.
I'm still on the fence about what I'm going to do. The stick on this pie is still a too brittle. I'm unsure if that's something that can be tamed or transformed into more of a "tah," because as I understand, that it one of the characteristics that's inherent in the creation of the alloy and its tempering. Also, I'm not sure if I want to sink anymore coin into this pie. Decisions, decisions.
 
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