SERIOUSLY Thinking About Building A Snare Drum

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Postby JasonDeLima » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:39 am

Timekeep69 wrote:I believe amdrumparts.com offers free edges and drilling if you buy everything from them. If so, that's the way to go. It will be cheaper to do that then to buy one from me or especially DW. The problem is that if you want to stain the shell you can with the holes, but it's going to be a headache tryingto keep the stain from going through and staining the inside of the shell.

It's a tough call. Because with wrap you can't get adhesive in a small enough amount for just a single drum. It's either a gallon of contact cement or an entire roll of adhesive tape.

Wow, thanks for the site, PJ. I'll definitely look into them.
I don't really care if paint bleeds into the inside of the shell. So I'll probably go with a wood stain.
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Postby vincemie » Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:39 pm

dont count out natural finish either, if you purchase a drum shell you could keep it natural, they look beautiful and will match any kit you ever buy period.
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Postby Mitchell? » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:18 pm

vincemie wrote:dont count out natural finish either, if you purchase a drum shell you could keep it natural, they look beautiful and will match any kit you ever buy period.


That's the truth.
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Postby shrub » Sun Jul 27, 2008 4:18 pm

Cheerful-Bear wrote:
Timekeep69 wrote:Stain soaks into the wood grain and can actually soak past tape or anything else you try to block the hole with.


Which I learned when trying to do stripes. Wouldn't like stuffing the holes with cotton balls or something work?




Cotton balls will help, but unless they go into and fill into the molecular structure of the wood, it will never completly stop bleed through with stain.
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Postby I love Cheese and drums » Sun Jul 27, 2008 4:28 pm

vincemie wrote:dont count out natural finish either, if you purchase a drum shell you could keep it natural, they look beautiful and will match any kit you ever buy period.

I was just gonna say you could try a nice glossy wood finish. (I think thats the right word you know when the wood looks polished)
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Postby SGarrett » Sun Jul 27, 2008 5:19 pm

shrub wrote:
Cheerful-Bear wrote:
Timekeep69 wrote:Stain soaks into the wood grain and can actually soak past tape or anything else you try to block the hole with.


Which I learned when trying to do stripes. Wouldn't like stuffing the holes with cotton balls or something work?




Cotton balls will help, but unless they go into and fill into the molecular structure of the wood, it will never completly stop bleed through with stain.


What about using dowels the same size as the holes? Wouldn't that at least keep the stain/paint from going to the inside of the shell?
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Postby Kaos » Sun Jul 27, 2008 6:30 pm

If you buy your shells predrilled a good way to keep the outside finish on the outside use plumbers puddy. Its cheap and easy to push into the holes and works pretty well. When your done just use a drill bit and twist it with your hands to get the puddy out. Also don't forget to seal the insides of your shell with with tung or some other type of sealer.
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Postby shrub » Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:33 pm

SGarrett wrote:
shrub wrote:
Cheerful-Bear wrote:
Timekeep69 wrote:Stain soaks into the wood grain and can actually soak past tape or anything else you try to block the hole with.


Which I learned when trying to do stripes. Wouldn't like stuffing the holes with cotton balls or something work?




Cotton balls will help, but unless they go into and fill into the molecular structure of the wood, it will never completly stop bleed through with stain.


What about using dowels the same size as the holes? Wouldn't that at least keep the stain/paint from going to the inside of the shell?



It will certainly help, and chances are it will work, but you cant be 100% sure though. It really depends on how you apply the stain, but if youre somewhat careful
the holes wont be a problem.
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Postby johnisonfire » Wed Jul 30, 2008 6:53 pm

I read on the ghostnote forums that taping the inside of the shell where the hole is and applying some hot glue from a hot glue gun in the hole to plug it works well, and then you just re-drill the hot glue out afterwards. Haven't tried in theory.

To JasonDeLima,
What I'd do is buy a cheapy wood Snare off Ebay (make sure you ask the seller if the wrap on it is installed with tape instead of glue). Remove all hardware, strip it and stain it. even if it doesn't have a pretty grain. You'll know first hand how staining and finishing a round drum shell is a little trickier than a flat board like a cabinet door or something. Once you have that done with the stain and X number of clear poly, then I'd invest (or convince your mom to invest) in a pre-cut, pre-drilled Keller Shell. Use the different techniques talked about here in staining around holes.

Or if you want a less expensive alternative, get a good piece of craft Pine or Oak from Home Depot or Lowe's (under $10). drill a few 1/4" holes and practice staining those using the techniques mentioned here and in other threads. Read as much as you can, but know that nothing replaces first hand experience and practice. There's a way to do it without blowing the bank. I know you mentioned you don't have aspirations to be the next OCDP, but if you pull off a killer snare with a Keller Maplevshell, you may get the itch and/or realize that you have potential to make more.
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